Malaysia

Sabah

Cosmopolitan

Lush

Savory

Market in Kota Kinabalu ❘ Peter Adams/Getty Images

Tanjung Aru water village ❘ Matyas Rehak/Alamy

Proboscis monkeys in a mangrove forest ❘ miskani/Getty Images

Kota Kinabalu City Mosque ❘ Jaris Ho/Getty Images

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Mega-biodiversity, mountain views, and top-notch laksa.

Kota Kinabalu makes for an excellent starting point to explore the surrounding mountains, mangrove swamps, and beaches.

A patchwork of reefs, mangroves, mountains, cities, villages, tropical rainforests, and truly wild islands and caves make up the Malaysian state of Sabah on the northern tip of Borneo. The villages there, often propped on 10-foot stilts, ring with more than 80 languages and an earthy scent hovers over many streets from bamboo-rolled cigarettes.

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Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in Southeast Asia, and it’s a natural centerpiece for any Sabah trip. The nearest city is cosmopolitan Kota Kinabalu (known as KK), which makes for an excellent starting point to explore the surrounding mountains, mangrove swamps, and beaches. Many travelers get their bearings on Gaya Street, a backpacker-friendly hub with a mosaic of Indigenous, Chinese, Indian, and Malay dining options.

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Head to Restoran Beaufort for Beaufort mee, gooey noodles often fried in lard, topped with char siu pork and crunchy greens. Or try Grace Point Food Court for hinava, an Indigenous Kadazan recipe for mackerel and bitter melon marinated in lime juice. Any kopitiam (café) such as Seng Hing is ideal for a simple teh tarik (frothy milk tea). Crucially, do not skip the laksa (spicy noodle soup) at spots like Yee Fung, and keep an eye out for durian ice cream and a rare savory species of mango.

Mount Kinabalu ❘ Nora Carol Photography/Getty Images

While in town, catch a Tanjung Aru sunset to see a Sabahan water village illuminated in fleeting neon-rose against the South China Sea. Head to the Kundasang War Memorial to see the impact of the World War II Sandakan Death Marches. Pick up some stingless bee honey at the Kadazan/Dusun market in Penampang. Or take in the views from one of KK’s rooftop bars.

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From Kota Kinabalu, visitors can rent a car or take a Ranau-bound bus from Padang Merdeka for excursions to climb Kinabalu. It’s best to spend the night near Tinompok to acclimate to the altitude before embarking on the minimum two-day, one-night climb—reserve a spot with Sabah Parks in advance, as fewer than 200 climbers are allowed to summit Kinabalu per day. No alpine experience is required, but the 13,435-foot ascent demands basic fitness (and maybe an affinity for carnivorous plants).

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Back at sea level, take a ferry from KK’s Jesselton Point to snorkel some of Sabah’s best reefs in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. To gear up, either book a tour or hit one of the malls in town. Looking to really unwind? Spend a lazy afternoon at a seafood shack peddling crabs from the mangrove on the other side of the KK-Kudat highway. You might find yourself singing “Aramaiti” with friendly Sabahans over a glass of bahar—with a moonlit view of Kinabalu to boot.

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Sabah is currently on track to be the world’s first green palm oil state through a variety of sustainability practices, but decades of palm oil demand has already caused widespread deforestation in the region since the 1960s, which threatens Borneo’s mega-biodiversity. In order to protect Sabah's magnificent rainforests (note the plural) and sustain a living outside of oil palm, organizations such as KOPEL, which is community-led, have sprung up to promote ecotourism. The co-op offers kampung (village) stays and eco-camps in the lush forested wetlands of the Lower Kinabatangan region—and they’re sure to recommend partner organizations across Borneo.

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— John Besche